从尖琢到百面：一篇看懂钻石切工的演变史

liuchuanzuiguangdezuanshi，shibiaozhunde57/58qiemiandeyangshi，「zuanshi」yicidejianbihuaxingzhuangjiuyiciweiyuanxing。shishishang，zuanshiqiegongjinglilejigeshijideyanbian，congzuichudejiandanqiegongdaorujindeguangxue、kexuebili，meiyicishengjidoushiyichangcuicantuibian。

数学×光学定义「理想比例」

xiandaiyuanxingmingliangshiqiegegongyiqiyuanyu20shijichu，zaicizhiqian，tianranzuanshiqiegejingliguoduogeshijidegongyiyanbian。

尖琢型切工（Point Cut）

时间：14世纪中叶

tedian：baoliuzuanshitianranbamiantiwaixing，jinjinxingjiandanpaoguang，buzuoewaikemian。

mude：tishengduichengxingheguangze，danjihubugaibianyuanshixingtai。

juxian：guangxianfanshexiaoguoweiruo，liangduyouxian。

桌形切工（Table Cut）

时间：15世纪初

tedian：jiangbamiantideyigejianjiaomoping，xingcheng“zhuomian”，shidiyizhongzhenzhengyiyishangdekemianqiegong。

yiyi：biaozhizhexiandaizuanshizhuoxingdeqidian，weihoulaidejietixing、zumulvxingdengqiegongdiandingjichu。

juxian：diburengjiaoda，guangxianrongyilouchu，huocaibuzu。

玫瑰形切工（Rose Cut）

时间：16世纪

tedian：dingbuweiyuandingzhuang，dibupingtan，tongchangyou24gesanjiaoxingkemian。

fengge：rouhe、gudian，qiangdiaomansheguangerfeishanyao。

yongtu：changyongyugudongzhubao，zhijinrengshoufugufenggexiai。

马扎林切工（Mazarin Cut）

时间：17世纪中叶

tedian：shouge“mingliangshiqiege”changshi，guanbuyou17gekemian，zengqiangguangxianfanshe。

yiyi：weihoulaidemingliangshiqiegongtigongjiegoujichu。

cihou，peilujiqiegong（peruzzi cut）、laokuangshiqiegong（old mine cut）、laooushiqiegong（old european cut）yezi17shijimodao19shijimozhujianyanbianerlai，zuanshenkemianbuduanzengjia，xingzhuangyegengjiejinyuanxing，junbeirenweishixiandaimingliangshiqiegedeqianshenzhiyi。

dao20shijichu，chushenyuzhumingzuanshiqiegeshijiademasaier·tuoerkefusiji（marcel tolkowsky）zailundundaxuegongduboshixueweiqijian，duitianranzuanshiqiegezhankaileshenruyanjiu，bingzaiciqian「jingyanxing」qiegongdejichushang，shouciyongshuxueyuguangxueyuanlidingyiletianranzuanshiqiegede「lixiangbili」。

1919nian，tajiangyanjiuzhenglichengce，fabuchubanwei《zuanshisheji》（diamond design）yishu，shuzhongxiangxichanshuleruhetongguoshuxuemoxingxitongfenxiguangxianzaizuanshineibudelujing，bingtichubiaozhunyuanxingmingliangshiqiegong（round brilliant cut）delixiangbilihejiaodu，yizuidahuazuanshidebaiguang（brilliance）、huoguang（fire）heshanguang（scintillation），zicikaiqiletianranzuanshiqiegongdexiandaihuashidai。

tolkowskydeshuxueyanjiujieshileguangzaiyuanxingmingliangqiegezuanshizhongdebiaoxianfangshi，zheiyiyanjiuchengguoduizuanshiqiegechanshengleshenyuanyingxiang，jibianshirujinquanxindezuanshiqiegepingjiafangfayeshizaitadeyanjiujichushangfazhanerlaide。

marcel tolkowskyyinqiduixiandaizuanshiqiegedeshenyuanyingxiang，beiyuwei「zuanshiqiegezhifu」，qijiazusuochuanchengde「tuoerkefusijizuanxing」yebeirenweishixiandaizuanshiqiegededianfengzhizuo。

tuoerkefusijizuanxing，youguan、yaohetingsanbufenzucheng。guanbuyou33gemian，yaobuyou25gemian，zonggong58gemian。zheizhongqiegefangshinengrangguangxianzaizuanshineibuduocizheshe，congerchanshengmirende“huocai”。

创作×传承

造就「切割世家」

jinguanmasaier·tuoerkefusiji（marcel tolkowsky）zhishiweixiandaizuanshiqiegegongyitigonglelilunzhichi，tabeihoudetolkowskyjiazuqueshimingfuqishide「zuanshiyelaomo」。

cong1800niandaikaishi，tolkowskyjiazujiukaishishelietianranzuanshiqiegexingye，tamencengfamingleshijieshangdiyitaizuanshiqiemoji，yedanshengguoanteweipuzuanshijiaoyisuodeshourendongshizhang，shudaitolkowskyjiazuchuanrenhuoyuezaizuanshimaimai、qiegehepaoguangdenglingyu，shenzhicaodaoqiegeleyixiequanshijiezhumingdezuanshizuopin。

- 世纪钻石（Centenary Diamond）

jiabuliaier·tuoerkefusiji（gabriel s tolkowsky）yushijizuanshi

yuanshizhongliang：599kela

chengpinzhongliang：273.85kela

qiegong：247geqiemian（dingbu75、dibu89、yaobu83）

qiemoshi：gabriel s tolkowsky（marcel tolkowskydezhisun）

beijing：shijizuanshideyuanshiyu1986nianfaxianyunanfeipremierkuang，jihuwuxiaci。

gabihaoshisannian，shejibingzhudaoqiemo，zuizhongchengxianchuyikejizhicuicandejuxingzuanshi，beishiweidaibiersibainianqingdiandexiangzheng。1991nian，zheikezuanshizailunduntazhanchu，xianjiyilishabainvwangershi，dangshiguzhichaoguo1yimeiyuan。

- 金色陛下钻石（Golden Jubilee Diamond）

tongyangyougabriel s tolkowskyzhudaoqiege

yuanshizhongliang：755.50kela

chengpinzhongliang：545.67kela

yanse：jinhese（fancy yellow-brown）

qiegong：huomeiguizhenxingqiegong（fire rose cushion cut）

qiemoshi：gabriel s tolkowsky（sheji）yudawie du plessis（shijiqiemo）

beijing：zheimeizuanshishimuqianshijieshangyizhidezuidachengpinzuanshi，bi“feizhouzhixing”haizhong15.47kela。1997nian，tazuoweitaiguoguowangpumipengdengji50zhouniandeliwubeichengsongjitaiguohuangshi，chengweiguojiaxiangzheng。

在切磨世界，这些「光的雕刻师」与代代相传的匠心，和天然钻石一样被珍而重之，用以定义艺术与永恒。