卡地亚古董珍藏珠宝展：演绎跨越一个世纪的风格演变

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilie（cartier tradition）dezuopindaduolaizipinpai1900-1990nianjianchuangzuodezhenpin。touguozheixiegudongzuopinsuozhanxiandeshidaifengge，keyigengquanmiandilejiekadiyadedangdaichuangzuo，tamenbaohanshiguangyurongyaodechuancheng，jiangkadiyadushuyizhidemeixuefenggejiwenhuajinxingbaocunjiyanxu，gengshijinyigeshijishishangfengchaodexiangzheng。

cicizhanlanzhuyaozhanchuzhuangshiyishufengge（20shiji20niandai）、zhen•dusangfengge（20shiji30-90niandai）degudongzhenzangzhubaojiwanbiaozuopin，tuxianyouyananshifengfandegudongzhenzangpeishi，yijishenshouzheixiefenggeyingxiangdedangdaichuangzuo（1990nianhou）。

装饰艺术风格：瑰丽多彩的时期

zhuangshiyishushiyichangguimohongdadeyishuyundong，jijuxianfengjingshendekadiyatongguojihetuanhedadanpeise，kaichuangquanxinmeixuefengge，chengweizhuangshiyishufengchaodeyinlingzhezhiyi。

zhuangshiyishuduiyukadiyaeryanyibujinshiyizhongfengge，tagengbeishiweiyiduanwanzhengqieguiliduozideshiqi。

trefoilsanyecaotuanfadai，shizhuangshiyishufenggeshiqidedianfanzhizuo。bojin、hailanbaoshi、gaomanao、lanbaoshijizuanshidedianyazuhe，jiangjuxiangdesanyecaoyijihetuanquanshi。zhongyanghailanbaoshiyulanbaoshibufenkequxiazuoweixiongzhenpeidai，ershufadailiangduankelianjiezuoweishoulianpeidai。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilietrefoilsanyecaotuanfadai；1926nian，kadiyabali

ornamentxianglian，touluchudongfanglingganduizhuangshiyishufenggedeqifa。zaibojinhezuanshigouzhudekuangjiashang，tianranzhenzhuweizhengtizaoxingzhuruhexiesediao，xiabailiusushejizengtianlvdonggan，chengxianbiejuyigedefenggezhizuo。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilieornamentxianglian；1927nian，kadiyaniuyue

jihehudiejiexiongzhen，zeshizhuangshiyishufenggeshiqiheibaiduibiyunyongdedaibiaozhizuo。yikezhenxinggudiankuangshiqiegezuanshi，dapeishukegudianoushiqiegezuanshiyugaomanao，yijihexiantiaogoulechuhudiejietuan，yunyuchukadiyabiaozhixingdezhuangshiyishujiezuo。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliejihehudiejiexiongzhen；1928nian，kadiyabali

huapingdiaozhui/xiongzhen，shimeihaoniandaiyuzhuangshiyishufenggexiehoudewanmeizhizuo。duozhongxingzhuangdezuanshiyugaomanaoxianghuyingchen，yingzaochulingrenzhemideshensuixiaoguo。huapingzhuangshibufenkechaixiezuoweixiongzhendandupeidai，yikefenbiedapeisichouxishenghuobojinzuanshixilianpeidai。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliehuapingdiaozhui/xiongzhen；1928nian，kadiyabali

贞•杜桑风格：开启创意新纪元

zhen•dusangnvshizi1933nianjierenkadiyachuangyizongjian，chengweidangshizhubaolingyuweishubuduodezhangwozhechuangyijuecequandenvxing。20shiji40niandai，shizhuangfenggeyouyiciqingxiangyutuxiannvxingquxian：xianxideyaoshen、caijianxiushendexizhuangyijigengweixiuzhangdebanqun。zaitadeyinlingxia，kadiyazhubaozuopinyiqiansuoweijiandeshejiquanshinvxingxingxiang，gulishifangtianxing，fengmiyishi。

20shiji70-90niandai，zhen•dusangfenggeyingxiangxiadekadiyazhubaoshejigengqufengfuyuduoyuanhua，zaoxingdadandejihesheji、secaixianmingkuazhangdehuangjinzuopin、guizhongbaoshidechuangyixiangqian、fenggechouxianghuadeyixiangbiaoda……gongtonggoujianlezheigeduoziduocaidexiandaishiqifengge。

sunburstshouzhuo，tixianleshejidelitiyulingdong。kadiyadadanyunyonghuangselanbaoshihelanselanbaoshijiaotixiangqian，jiazhizuanshiguizedianzhui，yanyiyangguangcuicanshenghuidemeigan。shouzhuolingyibanweilingdongdebianpinghuangjin“meiqiguan”jiegou，peidaiqilaigengweishushi。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliesunburstshouzhuo；1946nian，kadiyaniuyue

huangjinniusuoxianglian，jiangzhenguibaoshibianzuogoulehuahuituxingdeyuansu，chengjiuqianweideshidaifengshang。36kesediaoshenqianbuyidetuyuanxingqiegelanbaoshizuhehuabanbufen，zuanshihuaruiyuniusuojinsihuabianjiangsangehuahuibufenbiandegengweiliti。huahuizhuishiyikezuoweixiongzhenpeidai。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliehuangjinniusuoxianglian；1947nian，kadiyabali

zhenniaoxiongzhen，xuanyonghuangjinzuoweizhuti，1kehongbaoshiyanjing、2keyuanxingjituoyuanxingzumulvweibuhe20kemixiangzuanshizuoweidianzhui。niaoleizhutidechuangzuozizhen•dusangfenggeshiqibianpinfanchuxian，qifengyingdeyuyiheyouyadezitaishijiehezhubaochuangyiyujingzhangongyideshangchengzhizuo。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliezhenniaoxiongzhen；1961nian，kadiyabali

duandaihudiejiexiongzhen，shibaisezhubaofengchaodedianjingzhizuo。302kemingliangshiqiegezuanshiyujietixingqiegezuanshi，xiangqianchuchuizhuidehudiejietuan，liuchangdehuxinggoulechuhuolisishedelvdonggan，chengweizhubaoyugaojidingzhishizhuangzhijiandelingganjianzheng。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilieduandaihudiejiexiongzhen；1955nian，kadiyabali

tressagexianglian，lingtianranzhenzhubianzhideshejidushuyizhi。zhuaxianggudianoushiqiegezuanshiyubaoxiangzuanshijiaotilianjie，youyalingdong。sanguzhuishigouchengkechaixiediaozhui，bingchenglezhen•dusangdelinian——linghuo，mudeshifangbiannvxingziruhuodong，gulitamenbiaodaziyoudulidetaidu，tongshinengzhanxianchudutedeyouyaqizhi。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilietressagexianglian/xiongzhen；1956nian，kadiyabali

feuillageyepianzhuangshishoulian，jiangziranzhuyideyuansuyichouxiangshoufajiayiquanshi。zheikuanshoulianyi14kezumulvweiye、zuanshihebojinweizhigan，dazaochuduizhiwudemeihaoxiangxiang。touguobiezhideloukongsheji，zailianglisecaidechentuoxia，gouchengfanmaoshuyedeyixiang。kadiyayongxiweiguancha、zhuoyuejiyihefengpeixiangxiangli，tuxiandazirandeshengmingli。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliefeuillageyepianzhuangshishoulian；1956nian，kadiyaniuyue

liubianxingtuanxianglian，shidadanzaoxingdejuejiadaibiao。chaodachicun、huangjindapeikongqueshidemingliangpeiseyijihanjiandeliubianxinglianhuansheji，zhongduokuazhangyuansuhuijuyitiaoxianglianshang，jingcaiquanshi20shiji70niandaiqianweiziyoudefengshang。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilieliubianxingtuanxianglian；1972nian，kadiyaniuyue

xingxingtuanshoulian，chengxianlitikongjianyubaoshiguangcaidebicihuying。zheijianzuopinyou7geluanxinglianjiezucheng，waiquanyouzuanshipuxiangercheng，chengduanmianxiaoguodehuangjinbufenzexiangneiaoxian，dangzhongxiangqianzumulv，zheiyangtupoxiangxiangdeshejixingchengdejihezhangli，touguohuangjinbiaomiandeyingshe，zumulvdeguangzeyouxushizhijianjiaoxianghuiyingdexiaoguo。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliexingxingtuanshoulian；1975nian，kadiyaniuyue

珍贵配饰：打造男士优雅风范

zichuangliyishi，kadiyayizhiyituxiannanshiyouyafengfandeshejilinianerwenming。zaozai19shiji，kadiyajiuyituichuchenshanniukou、xiukou、lingdaizhenhelingdaijiadengduozhongpeishi。20shijichu，xiukoukaishicaiyongfalangcaizhi，dengtongzhubaodejingzhichengdushitamenfengmiyishi。

duikadiyaeryan，zheixiezuopinbujinjinshipeishi，tamenyongyouyuzhubaotaozhuangheshijizuopintongdengzhongyaodefenggeliliang。shunianhou，zuopinqiaomiaoyunyongjihetuxinghesecaiduibi，rulanyulv、heiyubai，wubuzhangxianzhuangshiyishushiqidebiaozhixingmeixuefengfan。

doujixiongzhen，shikadiyayidongwuweishejichufadiandezhenshixiezhao。liangzhipuxiangzuanshidegongjizaoxinggejuxiongzhenyiduan，zuanshiguangmangshanxiangongjidexiongxiongqishi，shengdongchengxianchufangfoyichujifadedongganyuzhangli。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliedoujixiongzhen；1925nian，kadiyabali

yuanpanxiukou，shikadiyalvxianyunyonggaomanaodedaibiaozuozhiyi。zhuangzhongyouyadeheibaipeisebeishoushirenqinglai，xiukouwaiquanxiangqianzuanshi，qiaomiaoliyongyouruguangyingzhijiandexianmingduibi，chengxiankadiyajinglianjianjiedeshejimeixue。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxilieyuanpanxiukou；1929nian，kadiyabali

suanpanzhizhen，zhangxianlekadiyaduiyunanshiyouyafengfandedudaojianjiehechuangyimiaosi。zheijiansuanpanzhizhenyouzhangfangxinglvsedalishidizuohepaoguanghuangjinsuanpanzucheng，jianjumeiganhegongjudeshiyongxing。

kadiyagudongzhenzangxiliesuanpanzhizhen；1971nian，kadiyaniuyue

当代创作：秉承创新精神的全新探索

zaidangdai，chuleguangweirenshuzhidejingdianshejiwai，kadiyatongyangkaituozheweizhidechuangyilingyu：xinxiandelingganlaiyuan、zaoxingyuxiantiao、xinyingdebaoshizuheyupeise、yijijihetuxingdezhanxinbiaoda……kadiyadefenggeyuyanshifuyoushengminglide，tasuizheshidaifazhanbuduanyanbian，tongshiyebiandegengjiafengfu。

tanabatagaojizhubaoxianglian，jingzhangongyirangzheikuanzhubaodeyuzhouzhutifahuidelinlijinzhi。kadiyacongyike 37.27 keladezhenxituoyuanxingzuanshizhongjiqulinggan，goulechuyikehuixingdeyunxingguiji。lixing、mayanxing、meiguishiheyuanmingliangshiqiegezuanshizedianzhuichuqimirendeguangyun。zheikuanxianglianyanxukadiyakezhuanhuanzhubaodechuantong，zuanshidiaozhuikequxiazuoweijiezhipeidai。

kadiyatanabatagaojizhubaoxianglian

cassandregaojizhubaojiezhi，chuangxinyanyisecaipengzhuangyuzaoxingsheji。pinzhiyouyidefenzuanyulanzuandazaohexiedesecaizuhe。baizuangoulechudequxiankuoxingzeweicaizuandailaigengduolvdongyuxianhuodeshengmingli。

kadiyacassandregaojizhubaojiezhi