卡地亚历史印记 神秘卡地亚档案馆【图】

 　　kadiyazaibaohuzishenwenhuayichanfangmianjijuqianzhanjingshen，henzaojiukaishizhiliyudanganziliaodebaocunheguanli。zaiyishuhewenhualingyuyichanghuoyuedekadiya，shizhongnulizhenzangpinpaijiyi，suizheshijiantuiyi，zheifenfenghoudedanganbaozangyikaishifahuiqiqiangdadezuoyong。

　　kadiyadanganguanzhongguanyuzhongguodejilu：luyi·kadiyadezangshu《étoffes de chine》fengmian;yijizhuer•gelaenze(jules glaenzer)yu1908nianzaixianggangheshanghaidelvxingrizhi。

　　zheixiekadiyalishidanganxianbaocunyubali、lundunheniuyuegezidulidedanganguannei，jiweixiangjindijizaizhekadiyacongpinpaichuanglizhizhi1970niandaidezuopin，yejianzhengzhekadiyayuyigebanshijidechuangzuolicheng。

　　kadiyadanganyousigebutonglaiyuandeshangyeshujugoucheng：

　　ruhuojilubu：jizaixingouruzuopindexiangqing。qizhong，baoshideyanse、zhidi(diaokehuoweidiaoke)、daxiaohezhongliangdengxinxi，douxizhierxiangjindijiluyuci;

　　dinggoujilubu：kerendetebiedingzhijilu;

　　xiaoshoumingxibu：meitiangengxin，jilujingpindianderichangyewu;

　　kehudanganbu：jilumeiyibijiaoyidexiangqing。

　　cong1899niankaishi，kadiyajiuyizhizhangzhubalihepingjie13hao。guci，cong20shijichuzhidaoxianzai，balidedangandedaolejiweiwanshandebaocun，jihuhaowuyilou。

kadiyahepingjie13haozongdian

　　chugeleiwenxianjiluzhiwai，kadiyadanganguanhaishouzangledaliangzhaopiandipian，qishijiankuaduhengkualezhenggesheyingshi。cong1906niankaishi，kadiyasheyinggongzuoshijiuxitongxingdiweimeiyijianzuopinpaisheyushiwudengdadezhaopian。­rujin，kadiyabalidanganguanshouzangledayue40，000zhangdipian，qizhongbaokuo50zhangaotuokeluomuweilicaipingganban(jizuizaoqicaizhaodipian)yu30，000duozhangmingjiaoxiuhuayinboliganban。

　　彩照底片

　　jizai 1925niankadiyazhizuodeyidingxiangqianyoubojin、zumulv、zhenzhujizuanshidetoushi。jean-marie del moral © cartier

　　ciwai，kadiyadanganguanhaishouzangledaliangyushiwudengdadeshouhuituzhi，baokuocaotuhezhizuotu。zheixiezangpinshijiluzhubaochuangzuoguochengdezhongyaowendang。yongyumaogangbihuizhide“chuangyi”caotubeibaocunzaihuoyejiazhong，erlaiziwaijiedelinggan——tongchangshijianzhufengge——zebeishouzangzailingganbanshang。

　　tigongjigongzuofangdezhizuotutongchangshiyushiwudengdadeqianshitu(henshaoyoutoushitu)。kadiyadeshejiduoyishuifenheshuicaijifahuizhizaimiaotuzhishang，zaiyongshimoqianbigoulechuzhubaozuopindejiegou。zheizhongfangfaduobeiyongyumeihuahexiuzhengzuopin，yibianpinghengguangxianyuzuopintiliang。suizheshejichaoliudegaibian，tuzhidefenggeyesuizhiyanjin：cong20shijichudechunzhuangshifengge，dao1930niandaideshuifenhua;1920niandaiqingxiangyugengweiziyoudesecaizuhe，erzhanyihouzeliuxinggezhongjingquejuxiangde、yiziranweilinggandebiaoxianzhuyihuifa。

　　zaibalidedanganguanzhong，haizhenzangzhekadiyagongzuofangchuangzuolichengzuiwanmeidejianzhengzhiyi：kadiyazai1905niandao1915nianzhijianzhizuodeduyiwuerdesanweilitishigaomoxing。

　　sheyingyushouhuigaodanganyusanjiantoushizuopindeshigaomoxing1910nian，kadiyabali。jean-marie del moral © cartier

　　zhubaoshishiyixiangxuyaotuanduixiezuodegongzuo，youyimingshejishidanrenzhuguan，fuzechuangzuolingganhejianguanzhizuo。zheiyidian，congluyi·kadiya(louis cartier)dexingmingsuoxiel.c.hezhen·dusang(jeanne toussaint)qinshouqianxiedea ex.ziyang(yuanzifayu“à exécuter”，yisishi“kezhixing”)jiukeyikanchulai。

　　kadiyadanganguanweipinpailishitigonglexiangjindejilu，baokuowushuwenxian、yaoqinghan、guanggao、youshejishizhenglijijidezhaoxiangbu，yijidaliangyewuwanglaixinjianhelvxingriji。zheixiebaocunfengfudedanganshikadiyazichuangshizhichujiuyizhanshichudechuangzaohuolizuiqiangyoulidemingzheng。

　　duizheiyifenghoulishiyichanjiayibaohu，jiangqifayangguangdabingdaidaichuancheng，shikadiyadanganguandezhongyaoshiming。kadiyadanganguandeshouyaozongzhi，shiweikadiyagudongzuopindezhenweijiandinghexiushantigongcankaoziliao。gengzhongyaodeshi，zheifenfengfudedanganziliaobeigongrenweishilejiezhubaohezhibiaoshidezhuanyecankaoziliaolaiyuan。kadiyadanganguanzhonghaohanfanduodedanganbujinjianzhenglekadiyazaiyishushizhongsuofahuidezuoyong，gengchengxianchuqizaiyishulingyudehexindiwei。

　　erzhengshitongguobuduanfajueheyanjiuzheixiedanganziliao，kadiyadeyishouhuqijingzhanjiyiyuwenhuaneihan，chengjiuyijianjianfenggeyongxudechuanshijiazuo。